Everything about wall mounting a TV — choosing the right mount, finding studs, hiding cables, and picking the perfect height. NYC-specific tips included.
Need this done professionally? We handle it every day.
Book NowBook your professional TV mounting in NYC or New Jersey today.
Can You Mount a TV in a NYC Apartment?
Mounting a TV on the wall involves choosing the right mount type, identifying your wall material (drywall, plaster, brick, or concrete — NYC has all of them), finding studs or using the correct anchors, picking the right height (center of screen at seated eye level), and hiding the cables. For standard drywall into wood studs, it's a doable DIY project. For plaster, concrete, full-motion mounts, or any in-wall wiring, professional installation is the safer call — starting at $149.
Wall mounting a TV is one of the most satisfying home improvements you can do. It cleans up your space, eliminates the furniture footprint, and puts the screen exactly where you want it. But there's a reason so many people get halfway through and call a professional — the steps that seem simple get complicated fast when you hit a plaster wall, miss a stud, or realize you have no idea how to get the cables out of sight.
This is the guide we wish existed when we started. We've mounted thousands of TVs across NYC apartments and New Jersey homes — on drywall, plaster, brick, concrete, and everything in between.
The mount is the foundation of the whole install. There are three main types:
Fixed mounts hold the TV flat against the wall with no movement. They're the most secure, the lowest profile, and the cheapest. The TV sits about half an inch to 1.5 inches from the wall. If your viewing position is a couch directly across from the wall, a fixed mount is almost always the right call.
Tilting mounts let you angle the TV downward, which is useful when the TV needs to be mounted higher than ideal — above a fireplace, in a bedroom, or in a room where seating is lower than the screen.
Full-motion (articulating) mounts extend the TV out from the wall and let you swivel it in multiple directions. They're the most versatile and the most expensive. They're useful in corner placements, rooms with seating in multiple directions, or open-plan spaces. The tradeoff: full-motion mounts add significant weight load to the wall (the extended arm creates leverage), and they're the most likely to fail if not installed correctly. Don't use a full-motion mount on plaster walls — the leverage and weight stress is too much for plaster.
Before buying a mount: Check your TV's VESA pattern — the standardized hole spacing on the back. Every mount lists which VESA patterns it supports. Buy a mount before checking this and they may not match. Check our recommendations page for mounts we trust.
NYC apartments have several common wall types, and each one changes the installation approach.
Drywall: The standard in modern construction. Attached to wood or metal studs behind it. This is the easiest wall to mount on — a stud finder works reliably, and the mount screws directly into wood studs with lag bolts. If you have metal studs, use snap toggles instead of lag bolts.
Plaster: Found in pre-war buildings (anything built before roughly 1940). Looks similar to drywall but behaves completely differently. Stud finders can misread through plaster. Drilling into it without the right technique cracks the surface. If you're in a pre-war building — you almost certainly have plaster walls, and DIY mounting is significantly harder. Drill slowly, use carbide-tipped bits, and angle slightly downward for better holding strength.
Concrete and cinder block: Common in high-rise buildings, converted industrial spaces, and newer construction. Requires masonry bits, a hammer drill, and concrete anchors — entirely different hardware. Read our guide on mounting a TV without studs for concrete and masonry walls.
Brick: Found in brownstones, lofts, and pre-war walkups. Strong and durable but requires masonry hardware and a hammer drill.
If you're not sure what you have, tap the wall with your knuckles. Hollow sound with a slight flex = drywall. Dense solid thud = plaster or concrete.
For drywall walls, the standard approach is mounting into studs — the vertical wood or metal framing behind the drywall.
Finding studs: Use a stud finder. Mark both edges of the stud so you know exactly where it is. Always confirm by starting with a small drill bit (1/8 inch) before committing your mount screws — stud finders can give false positives near outlets and pipes.
The test drill approach: Start with a small 1/8" drill bit. If you hit something solid, you've found a stud. If the drill goes straight through without resistance, you're in drywall alone. Always start small and go bigger — this prevents making large holes in the wrong spot.
Drill bit progression: 1/8" to test → 7/32" for small drywall anchors → 1/2" for toggle anchors. Go bigger gradually so you don't end up with oversized holes in the wrong place.
When studs don't line up with your mount holes: Use heavy-duty toggle bolts rated for your TV's weight. For heavy TVs or full-motion mounts, always get into studs.
When there are no studs at all (concrete, masonry): Use concrete anchors with a hammer drill and masonry bits. See our guide on mounting a TV without studs for the full approach.
TV height is where most DIY installs go wrong. The instinct is to mount the TV high — it feels right and looks more dramatic. But this creates neck strain for anyone watching for more than 20 minutes.
The correct viewing height: The center of the TV screen should be at eye level when you're seated. For most people on a sofa, that's approximately 42 to 48 inches from the floor to the center of the screen.
To find your specific ideal height: sit in your primary viewing spot and look straight ahead. Have someone measure from the floor to that point. That's your target for the center of the TV.
Use our TV mounting height calculator for a precise recommendation based on your TV size and seating distance.
When you have to go higher: Fireplaces and room layouts sometimes force the TV higher than ideal. If you're going above 55 inches from floor to center, use a tilting mount so you can angle the screen downward.
Here's the concise version:
At least 1 1/4 inches of bolt penetration into the stud is what you're aiming for.
This is where a clean install becomes a finished install.
Option 1: Cable raceways. Plastic channel covers that attach to the wall and hide cables running from the TV down to the outlet. No cutting required. Paintable versions blend in with the wall. Fastest, most renter-friendly option. Check our recommendations page for the raceway we use.
Our TV Mounting + Cables Covered service includes professional raceway installation — $199.
Option 2: In-wall cable management. Cables route through the wall cavity between two wall plates — one behind the TV, one near the outlet. Gives a completely clean look with nothing visible. Works on drywall only.
Our TV Mounting + Power Bridge + Cables Hidden service handles this — $349.
Option 3: Full in-wall outlet. A new recessed outlet installed directly behind the TV with all cables routed inside the wall. Nothing visible from any angle — the cleanest possible result.
Our TV Mounting + Power Outlet + Cable in Wall service is $599.
Not testing with a small drill bit first. The most common mistake — drilling a big hole and then realizing you missed the stud or can't mount there. Always start with a 1/8" test hole. If you don't hit anything solid, move and try again before making bigger holes.
Using the wrong anchor for the wall type. Drywall anchors in plaster will spin. Regular screws in drywall without a stud won't hold. Match the anchor to the wall AND the weight of the TV.
Not checking level. A bracket that's one degree off feels minor until the TV is on it. Then it's visibly crooked to everyone in the room. Check level before you tighten, and check it again after.
Mounting too high. The most common regret. Sit down, measure your eye level, and trust the number even if the position looks low from a standing perspective.
Forgetting to route cables before hanging the TV. Cable management is much easier when the wall is accessible. Plan the wiring before the TV goes up.
DIY wall mounting is doable for a standard drywall situation: flat or tilting mount, TV under 65 inches, into wood studs, with raceway cable management. If that describes your situation, you can likely handle it.
Hire a professional when:
If your building requires a Certificate of Insurance (COI) for work in your unit, we provide COI.
We offer TV mounting starting at $149 — labor only, you provide the TV and mount bracket. We can typically be there within a few days.
How high should I mount my TV? The center of the screen should be at your eye level when seated — typically 42 to 48 inches from the floor. Use our TV height calculator for a specific number.
Can I mount a TV without studs? Yes — but you need the right hardware. Heavy-duty toggle bolts handle most TVs on drywall without studs. For concrete or masonry, use concrete anchors with a hammer drill. For heavy TVs or full-motion mounts, always try to get into studs. Read our full guide on mounting a TV without studs.
How do I hide the TV cables? Three options: surface raceways ($199 with our cables covered service), in-wall cable plates ($349 with our power bridge service), or a full in-wall outlet ($599 with our in-wall service).
How much does professional TV mounting cost in NYC? Standard TV mounting starts at $149 for labor — you provide your own TV and mount bracket. Cable concealment adds to the cost depending on the method. See our complete NYC TV mounting cost guide for a full breakdown.
Wall mounting a TV well takes preparation, the right hardware, and patience. The result — a clean, secure TV at the right height with no visible cables — is worth doing right. If something doesn't feel right at any point, stop. The wall isn't going anywhere. Neither are we — book a mount and we'll take it from here.
